TomAlex

As promised here are a couple of pics. I used false eyelashes for Elle's eye lashes ( not easy to do but they were well worth it). She is about 19cm in length and 13cm high with felt pads under her feet. I had to reduce the polygon structure down to no subsurface division as the tiny polygons just end up being "bad polygons". This meant a lot of sanding but I am sure my Grand Daughter will be pleased with the results. I need to look into how artists produce miniature models for print. My guess is that Cinema 4D's Sculpt handles tiny polygons more effectively at a smaller scale.

Thank you DAST, yes I see now, should have spotted it myself. I'm busy 3D printing and painting models and just dipping back into C4D every now and again so I'm not quite up to speed with it. 👍

Hi, I am modelling a simple elephant character and she is almost fully rigged. In the first image her eye's are visible but obviously not in the correct place in the objects folder so they would move with the head. In the second image I have grouped the eye's together and placed them under the head controller. They do move with the head now but they have become invisible. Does anyone know why this has happened and can I correct this. TomAlex

Just a quick note. I tried Current State to Object and it didn't work. So I messed around for a while trying different things, eventually trying Connect & Delete with the whole rig and mesh, which worked a treat. I'm waiting for a flex plate for my printer as soon as it arrives I'll try a print. TomAlex

Thank you CERBERA, The slicer I am using LYCHEE SLICER, it is by far the best software for 3D Print at present. However they could certainly learn a few things from 3D Modelling software such as C4D. I guess the resin printing is still in its infancy so things can only get better. I have been printing my own designed models since last November so I'm up to speed handling my meshes. When I have printed and painted the model I will upload some pics. Cheers TomAlex

Hi guys, this is my first post on the new site, it looks good. A few years ago I modelled a cartoon elephant for an animation for my Grand Daughter. I built the model rig myself as the quadruped rig supplied with C4D does not have a trunk. So I have a rigged character model which I can pose. I would like to print the elephant model in different poses but I am not sure how to create the STL files. My first thoughts are to apply a current state object to the model mesh whilst it is in the pose I want, then to remove the rig and save the mesh as a STL file. I am busy making VW Camper models with lots of accessories to sell, and modelling a Lambretta scooter at the moment. My Grand Daughter's Birthday is in August so I have plenty of time before I will be making the prints. I would very much appreciate if someone could confirm if my idea will work or guide me on how to print a posed model. TomAlex

Thanks for your replies guys. KBAR I think you are right the vehicle is 16cm in length as compared to say the holdall which is only 2.5cm, so what you say makes sense. As I say its not really a problem as I can go below size 1, I just need to type the size in the field. BEZO I checked to see if I had enabled "Keep Visual Size", but no I hadn't. I did wonder what was happening for a while, when you get past 60 years old it does sometimes feel like you are losing it, only for a minute or two though. 🤦‍♂️

My project is a vehicle with different accessories to accompany it, all at a scale of around 1/30. I have modelled several of the accessories and used "sculpt" to add extra detail. Today I loaded the vehicle into "sculpt" and noticed the brush sizes are larger, size 1 being about 3 times the size of the size 1 brush I have used in modelling the accessories. All the projects have the same settings and scale and even the clipping is set to Tiny on all projects. I know I can reduce to lower than size 1 on the brushes, I am just wondering why the program is not consistent.

Thank you Cerbera, The bad polys were at the extreme corners and such as the number plate, but a 10cm print would make the number plate about 1 mm thick. Today I've remodelled the mesh without the areas where the bad polys were and can scale down to 7.4cm with no bad polys. The full scale model full model with all its bits and pieces is safe to print at the intended size of 15cm. TomAlex

I have an object which I intend to 3D print and at its full scale is 15cm in length,the object has been converted from normal build mesh to subdivide level 2. When I mesh check it it has 38 complex poles which most are the centre of radial geometry and the rest are in unseen places. It has a lot of "not Planar Polygons" which I an guessing will print just fine as the STL export will convert them to Tri's. I wanted to print out a 10cm trial version but when I mesh check I have 68 "Bad Polygons". These polys are very small but in areas where I cannot reduce the geometry. If I scale back up to 13cm the bad polys are not there, so I'm guessing its just a scaling issue. I will try a print, tomorrow or Monday. So in the mean time If anyone knows if they will present an issue in printing please let me know I will check back tomorrow and Monday. The object is a van type vehicle so obviously has tight geometry in places. Tom

Just a quick answer on this one. Some 3D printing software will allow you to print a hollow object and allow you to specify the thickness of the walls. Might be best to check if your printer has such software, just saves a bit of time modelling. Tom

Hello, my old log in details wouldn't work so I'm back as a newbie. Can someone explain what information is needed to complete "My Profile" do I need to enter a company name? Do I need to upload any specific files? Thanks TomAlex