DanLSK

Have anyone heard if the annual maintenance fees are still at play after R21? My annual maintenance is coming on the end of August and I just find it super silly since I have payed for both software in full and MAXON now owns Redshift. Also, Is the rumor about native C4D noises being revoked to work with Redshift correctly? Upping res on C4D noises in Redshift causes major slow downs. It pretty much bricks my pc when I play with the res :( If they fix this I'm trowing party at my house, who is coming?

I have purchased the Hello LUXX one and I think it was worth the money. I was quite happy with the way they explained most of the nodes and what changes are needed within them to get desired outcome. C4d as a hobby, this was plenty of info for me to get strong grip on things. BTW the LFO Design has free video on how to use fields in Redshift. This might give you good Idea how the rest of the tut might be.

Yes... I taught I did , but I guess I didn't registered my final purchase Key with MAXON and that is what happen.

To make things clear right of the bet, I do have legit license purchased trough MAXON web and own my key. Now I don't know how long that message been there or why it is there to begin with... but I find it strange. Any Ideas why? Should I contact MAXON? Everything else seams to work fine.

I just wanted to get the SLA printer and see what a difference it is printing at .05 or even .025 and I got to say it is truly amazing the level of detail this can deliver. That is of course if I get so fortunate and get successful print out of this thing... Other then the lid, this printer comes fully assembled. But it is whole new headache to deal with the resin, bed leveling, print removal and cleaning ... Oh yea lets not forget the post process print UV light curing. I heard good things about Ender 3, I think you should go for it.

Just shooting in the dark here, looking for someone to share some tips and tricks. I had the printer for about a week and starting to have mixed feelings whether I should keep it or return it while I can. Printer it self is incredibly touchy and the XYZware is real piece of work. When trying to slice or add supports of anything sculpted and hallowed out program crashes every time. Success to fail print ratio is fairly high and it becomes old quickly.

Very nice introductory videos. Was hoping to learn something new but no. Wish I knew about them 8 months ago!

Well I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question correctly, but if you want to export exact same dimensions as modeled in c4d to your slicer, then you need to make sure you are exporting in the same measuring units as you modeled. If you do modeling in mm ( set in c4d preferences/unit ) then make sure you are exporting to stl in mm 1.0 (scale 1 in millimeters - meaning 1:1 ratio). So in this case 10mm cube should show up as 10mm cube in slicer.

Thanx Simmy! This video was actually very helpful because I wanted to do research on building my own UV curing station. And yes, I am fully aware of the chemical exposure and danger that it come with. Being a Journeyman Sheet Metal Worker makes it easy to build properly ventilated enclosure in the back of the mud room so no one has to be exposed to the nasty fumes. Safety first like he said! I did look at the DLP Anycubic Photon but I figured if I go resin, then might as well go SLA.

I have been thinking about getting SLA resin printer. One of the ones I like is Moai which runs for $1200. The other one is Nobel which just recently drop down to $900 from $1600 or so :O They both share same size build plate but vary in software use and resin type. The Moai seems to be more flexible on resin use and is not limited to work with factory slicing program only. The level of detail these two printers can deliver is absolutely stunning and pretty much same. I mean, I can't see difference in quality from what I seen out there. Anyone have one of these perhaps did some research and can share opinion on the subject?

Well, yes ... it is bad and I got to agree with the comments above. But if that is the absolute best you can do, give this plug-in a shot and see if that helps you. I have not use it and don't know how well it works but in this article they recommend it for your kind of modeling skills Cheers :)

Nice. Did you pull those sound samples from the game or is there online source you are using?

I think some of them come with heat bad or even sticky back tape. Not sure if the ones with wires can be wired to CR10. Mine is just the Glass Plate just like this one here.

The importance of having god adhesion to build plate while 3D printing is a absolute must. Unfortunately the stock glass plate that comes with CR10s is know to be not of the best quality and often warped. Even thou I figure out way to level it out, I decided to upgrade anyways. This Black Anycubic Build Plate comes in 310x310mm size which is perfect fit for CR10s and I love the way it looks with my black on black themed CR10. It has black perforated layer on one side and clean glass on the other. But most importantly it is perfectly flat. The perforated side suppose to make taking printed parts of the plate easier as it cools down. I found it to be about same as the glass which takes about 30 min to coll and then pick right of the glass with ease. It also does not leave smooth glass like finish on the part after removal, but instead... kind of Carbon Fiber type look. Adhesion is excellent. If anyone is still straggling with adhesion to mirror, glass type surface you can try my method and see if it helps. 1; Get your self a spray bottle of good All Purpose Cleaner preferably with out many harsh chemicals like bleach and such. I use Simple Green. 2; Spray directly on the build plate and rub away with microfiber rag. 3; Then use another clean microfiber rag that is lightly damped in water and wipe away the reminding cleaner from surface. 4; Set the right temp for bed, 65 for PLA works good for me. Dial in the right distance on nozzle to bed and print away. Note: If you purchased custom glass or mirror from your local hardware store it might have protective UV coating! That might prevent from god adhesion in 3D printing applications. I got my Anycubic plate from ebay , just search for "Anicubic Ultrabase" If you want one Hope this comes as help to someone, good luck and happy printing!

The camera behavior makes me think of flying drone footage. Other than that it looks pretty awesome.

Taking second look at your pics I just noticed your bed only travels vertically. So I see how it is ok for the camera.

Nice work! Doesn't that shake the camera like crazy being attached to the bed like that? I like the linear bearing system on your printer. I'm surprised Creality is not using linear rails and guides like that. I agree having option to run 12v fans would be the way to go. Way better variety of fans with number of performances. I just picked up pair of Noctua fans for case upgrade. Sorry can't help you with the g-code. I usually look up what other people use, then chunk out the pieces I want and add them to mine.

Sorry lol, I could not resist...

YES! I finally find purchase reason for VR set up.

Well, you got long ways to go before you print. All I’m going to tell you is Don’t beat yours self up in the hurry. You can’t just jump in and model with out knowing the tools and having the necessary experience. It will take time to get comfortable with the program. Practice, watch tutorials, make notes and practice again... It helps to watch professional tutorials instead some YouTube “tool bag know it all” that obviously struggles to use the program. Check out Digital Tutors or Lynda or Cineversity. Good luck and don’t give up!

Happy new year to all!

Yes indeed, In my case I love the remote control and camera stream so I can check on the printer at will while I'm at work. Good to know, hope my older web cam is going to work. If I go crazy with the project , I will start new thread with the progress as I go. Haven't have time to do anything with the PI yet, but did find this blog with same set up I have. I'm going to fallow his guide with hope of success

I drove to local electronics store to get it so probably payed bit more then if I would shop online. Raspbbery PI $35 7" touch screen $69 32gig SD card $20 Project box $10 but I'm going to print and use this one 12 to 5V car plug $5 going to wire it to draw power from Creality PSU to power the PI On the side note , I am really thinking about getting one of these and relocating the guts from Creality with the PI in to it. Cutting holes in the front panel to fit the Creality control knob and both displays. Using suitable PC PSU can help with temperature speeds and the +5V can be used to supply PI with clean power.

No kidding lol! I literally just logged in to start a thread on my octoprint set up build WIP. I got the goods Yesterday and will try to get it running later tonight. I also got the 7" touch screen and not sure how to get it all running. Got a lot of research to do ...

This video here showing what code to input in S3D for specific layer to stop printing and let you swap filaments on the go. But with the S version of CR10 we have filament detector which triggers when filament is pulled out and immediately goes into cool down mode. I did come out with simple solution to manually bypass this problem, by taking the micro switch out and rubber band it together. While this is just temporary solution, I am looking into having another switch for manual override in the future. First test cube print and filament swap came out as great success. BTW the green is Hatchbox fil and black is Esun fil. I will never go back to Creality filament again.