Jaee

I am struggling to model the bottom part of this Dyson Humidifier in C4D. I have built up some basic shapes of it. But, it was hart for me to model that rounded edge shape. Could you give me a hand? I've attached my C4D working file below.

More reference below_

Hi, I am trying to model this part of a hair dryer. Could you give me a tip to start modeling from scratch? Thanks,

  

Is there a way to sharpen that blue color vertex map border line in C4D?

9 hours ago, Cerbera said:

You can add a couple of control loops inside the middle loops there to straighten that up a bit....

 

 

CBR

Thanks! It looks good.

On 2/18/2022 at 11:51 PM, Cerbera said:

The question is very similar to the one about the lower button earlier, and the answer is similarly related. I would hope that having built the first button you might then know how to build the other one...

 

  Hide contents

 

So, exactly the same, but with an additional loop in the middle so you get an oval instead of circle.

 

 

Ordinarily I would try and separate these 2 cut-outs with an intermediate loop, but here the close proximity of them means that adding it would just do a different kind of pinching than without. So you do need to shrink-wrap this as shown in previous posts to remove that distortion and get my A* version  above...

 

CBR

Thanks  I don't know why mine looks different to the reference...The middle part of the upper hole is still rounded..

  

2 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Yeah I'd call that a solid A-. Client probably wouldn't notice any small distortion remaining !

 

CBR

Could you teach me how to make a hole for this? Attaching the C4D file below.

dyson dryer.c4d

5 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Sorry dude - that was days ago - don't think I saved it !

 

CBR

Oh Don't be sorry! I made a hole on the handle. Do you think it looks good? Attaching the C4D file below.

 

dyson dryer.c4d

On 2/13/2022 at 9:14 PM, Cerbera said:

The reason that is occurring to quite the degree it is, is because you are still confining the circle bit within a strictly rectangular cage, and then fencing that in (doubling down we might say) with extra loops at the top and bottom. This confines the inherent / unavoidable SDS distortion to a smaller area, and there compounds / highlights its lumpiness. 16 edges is arguably not quite enough to establish curvature without ANY distortion, but by evenly segmenting the cylinder section before we start, and then sliding the confining edges outwards like I have done below gets us substantially closer to an acceptable result because the inevitable distortion has at least been given room to breathe, and by doing so we make it less obvious...

 

 

However, if this still isn't good enough for your plans, and you really do need it as distortion free as it can be, then we do have to run round the houses a bit more, and get the shrink-wrapping out to produce the sort of immaculate result below...

 

For some reason your mesh only contained 1 hole there, not the 2 presumably needed on the handle to match the reference above, but no matter; if you need the 2 holes, model them in before you start the below...

 

 

To do that I followed these main stages:

 

1. Split the handle off the main mesh into its own object, and move it out of the hierarchy and into its own separate SDS. Delete those polys from the original model. Remove any existing depth in that model like the groove at the base, and the depth in the hole. You just need a tube with a hole in it (presuming the button within will be separate geo, which it should be).

 

2. Make the Handle SDS L2 to both editor and render, and a child of a new null.

 

3. Add a Shrink wrap deformer under that null as well, so it affects the SDS result, NOT the base mesh.

 

4. Get a cylinder the same dimensions as the handle, but with 196 rotational segments, slightly longer, so it sticks out both ends, and ever-so-slightly smaller, so it sits fractionally inside the existing handle. This will be your shrink-wrap target.

 

5. Select the shrink wrap, and drag the Cylinder into its Target field. Making sure SDS is on, if all has gone well your mesh with the hole will be wrapped onto the high res cylinder, with no distortion at all.

 

6. Last main step is to select the parent null, and do current state to object which will bake in 2 levels of subdivision. Now, back in the main model you need to do the same thing; apply 2 levels of subdiv so it matches the resolution of the handle section, then CO&D the 2 meshes, and Stitch n Sew the 2 sections back together. If you have done this right the amount of edges will match.

 

7. This newly recombined mesh can go under a new SDS, but that should be only level 1 (editor and render) so that you have max 3 levels in total.

 

The holes on the upper bit don't require quite so much care because they are on a much more minimally curved surface, hence there being no need to project those anywhere... only thing to say there is to make sure you model them in BEFORE you subdivide that part when it joins the handle again. Now you can add back any depth inside the hole and in the groove at the bottom.

 

We should note that any control loops that were in place before things were subdivided will have been needlessly quadrupled so you can optionally go around like I did, thinning out those areas, dissolving every other loop on curves, or larger groups on flat areas, like in this groove below, for better efficiency.

 

 

Of course once this level of SDS is baked in further edits become more challenging due to vastly increased segmentation, so best to get the model more or less otherwise complete before you do this.

 

Hope that helps...

 

CBR

Could I have your working file to compare with mine?

On 2/6/2022 at 12:53 PM, Cerbera said:

I presume you mean the button holes, rather than the buttons themselves ?

 

Excuse my hideous mouse drawing skills, but hopefully you can see what's what from the following - just need to add enough loops so you get 4 roughly square polys in a block, then inner extrude, and Points to circle etc etc...

 

 

I think you'll be alright, but if that does result in some pinching under SDS then re-project the handle section on to a 96 segment cylinder using shrink-wrap deformer, and that'll sort it out.

 

CBR

Hi Cerbera, do you know what this result is in pinching under SDS? and how to fix it? Attaching the working file for you.

 

dyson dryer.c4d

30 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

I presume you mean the button holes, rather than the buttons themselves ?

 

Excuse my hideous mouse drawing skills, but hopefully you can see what's what from the following - just need to add enough loops so you get 4 roughly square polys in a block, then inner extrude, and Points to circle etc etc...

 

 

I think you'll be alright, but if that does result in some pinching under SDS then re-project the handle section on to a 96 segment cylinder using shrink-wrap deformer, and that'll sort it out.

 

CBR

Thanks so much!

Hey guys, I am modeling a Dyson dryer. I've already created the body part of it. But, I am struggling to make some buttons. Could you teach me how to make them?

 

3 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Lookin good

 

CBR

Could you teach me how to texture these via materials?

On 2/2/2022 at 1:48 AM, Cerbera said:

Did a little test to see how far I could reduce the polycount as this button gets into the centre, as 120 edges converging on a pole isn't ideal, even though it doesn't actually matter here because this surface is flat. But you may find it helpful to see how we can get those 120 down to just 8 by the time we reach the centre...

 

 

So, not necessary here, but this is more about the art of topology (which is what I'm mainly in it for), and it's nice to know how to do large scale poly density step-ups/ step-downs.

 

CBR

I've done this so far

On 1/24/2022 at 2:56 AM, Cerbera said:

Just been back to advance the outer shells a bit more. I decided to apply L2 subdiv to our low poly originals to give me just about enough baked in curvature to be able to make the 3 indents for buttons / connection on the Left. So I did that, and then line cut around the various buttons, before insetting and extruding them variously back into the mesh to get this...

 

 

So we are now at global SDS level 2, but that is still not enough to add the smallest of details that these shells require, so we need 1 more level of staged subdiv applied to this mesh so we can make the tiny tiny LED holes and air vents. That will take the global level up to 3, which means the final live SDS object it goes under should be no more than L1 (even at render), taking the global level to 4, which is the maximum we should ever need, unless Edge weighting is involved.

 

 

 

CBR

Could you break down this part for me?

12 hours ago, Cerbera said:

While I am up with pesky insomnia I will go ahead and show you how to make the inner white plastic part of the main shells...

 

First get yourself one of these...

 

 

Then, Honeycomb array Clone that, sort of like this... (10 x 9 rows rather than the 10 x 7 shown below; you actually need 6 holes at the widest point).

 

 

When you have that right, you can make the cloner editable, off the copies we don't want, and then put the rest in a connect to join them. Make that editable too, and then delete all but one quarter of it like so, and restore 2 way symmetry, which makes the next bit lots quicker...

 

We'll also need a perimeter loop for this section, so create a very even one like I have with exactly the right amount of segments to join to the inner array.

 

 

And then we just need to play 'connect the meshes', and relax (Iron / brush smooth) the polys we create between these to make a very even, regular flat mesh.

 

 

In case you wonder, we don't have to care about the minorly complex 6 point poles here because this part of the surface is entirely planar.

 

This one will not be getting staged subdiv, so we can use control loops here (outlining the holes) and for the next bit, adding depth to this piece....

 

 

CBR

 

 

Thanks! I just created this mesh. But, I have no idea of combining it with the body part I've created earlier. Could you teach me?

  

23 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Sure...

 

AirpodMax CBR 01.c4d 243.45 kB · 0 downloads

 

CBR

Thanks!

35 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Be led by the reference. From what limited reference I have seen of that part they are fairly even, and mine are so because I scaled loops in on Y and X separately so that they were. Also I should check you are not building the white bit out of the same mesh as the rose pink bit. They are separate parts in the real world, and should be like that in the model as well, as we need radically different topology there. You can leave the outer mesh open - it doesn't even need thickness as it will be fully obscured by the other part(s).

 

CBR

Can I see your working file? I just want to check what's difference between yours and mine...

3 hours ago, Cerbera said:

So, if we continue that round the back, we can finish off the base mesh for that bit, with equally few polys, like so...

 

 

Now, of course that isn't enough mesh resolution to add the smaller holes and details, so next we apply 1 or 2 levels of subdivision to get perfectly even geo, again, without having to move anything ! This is called 'establishing curvature'; baking an initial level of subdivision into the mesh which allows us to continue with the smaller details.

 

So having checked that for ultimate smoothness of curvature with a soft metal texture...

 

 

...here's the same mesh, but now with L1 SDS applied, which is eminently more suitable for making those holes at the top, which is presumably the next stage of this bit. I am also down to 1 way symmetry now, as the bottom of these cups is slightly longer / more rounded than the tops.

 

 

CBR

the length marked as red and blue Look different. Is that natural? or not correct?

20 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Look at it from ALONG the surface, and the reason for lumpiness will become apparent.

 

Here's my version, doing the same thing. With your eye, follow each individual loop, and see how a nice a curve you have to it. Then check the same in the loops following in the opposite direction. If you don't have nice curves, lumps will start to show.

 

 

This way we minimize the work SDS has to do, and so it doesn't fight us...

 

 

CBR

Should I start from scretch again? or is it possoble to make it from this?

2 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

This is what that could look like...

 

 

CBR

This one is not working....Could you give me a hand?

16 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Yes, that's because the polys are quite unevenly spaced. You haven't yet done  the tweaking / relaxing stage  that would beautify this surface.

HB modelling bundle HB relax would help here, as would brush smoothing that centre section.

 

CBR 

I haven't use the HB modeling bundle...Do you think QuadCaps 1.0 would be working here?

2 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

 

CBR

something is wrong...pinches there.

 

49 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

After closer inspection, that pads mesh is this... 

 

Very easy to make modelled with a cloner, but much more poly efficient, and even easier to create via material I would have thought.

 

 

"Some cloned stitching, earlier"

 

CBR

Looks great! I have a question. Can I know how to close that polygon? Attaching the working file below.

C4DtoR_Template.c4d

Hi guys, I am trying to create an Airpods Max headphone in C4D. Can you give me a tip to start it? Thanks,

41 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

 

No. Not easily. This would be one things that might stop me using VB for this.

 

CBR

I agree with you. VB has pros and cons...